Srinigar

Water ferries, Srinagar, Indian-administered Kashmir, October 17, 2005

I'm now in Srinagar, in Indian-administered Kashmir. (Not that the local maps admit to the existence of any Pakistani-administered part.) It's been nine days since the earthquake that was centred about 160km to the west. I'm told there was very slight damage here, but the people fear for those in the remote villages.

I flew here today on Sahara Airlines. Amongst the normal baggage emerging on the belt were boxes marked as medicine for earthquake victims. I was met by my travel agent's father and brother installed on their houseboat 'Kismat' (meaning 'good luck'). Then was taken to see three lovely botanical gardens and a surprisingly interesting and low-pressure carpet makers cooperative.

There's a huge military presence, even with soldiers standing bored every few hundred metres along the main road which itself is choked by army convoys. Yet it's a somehow gentle presence. The soldiers smile rather than threaten. India has never seemed to be a very stern place.

I've been offered an upgrade to a 'water trek' - three days and two nights aboard a slightly larger boat (paddled by two men instead of one) and marvelous scenery. At $250 I can't afford it right now but I wouldn't mind coming back here with more time, money, and perhaps some companionship.

The power only just came on and there's certainly no Internet connection so while I can write each of the next few days, I won't be able to upload this in anything like real-time.