Kabita

Kabita, Kathmandu, Nepal, September 27, 2005

I think I'm ready to admit two things:

• I'm looking forward to going home.
• I've seen quite enough temples, stupas, Buddhas and erotic carvings.
  

Today I did most of the Lonely Planet's walking tour number 1 ... until making admission number 2 (above). Even when a statue in a bazaar is impressive because it's over 1000 years old and being used to prop up some seller's wares, I've had enough of it.

I did, however have two special moments with local people.

Firstly, one of very many touts in the Durbar Square approached me with the usual "Where do you come from?" routine, but then knocked me for six when in response to "Canada", he said "I am a great admirer of Margaret Atwood". (He has a degree in English lit.)

The second was when I stopped to photograph Newar women drying rice in a tucked-away courtyard. I started talking to Kabita (which means 'Poem'). She is very interesting. The courtyard is a common space for rice drying and they take it in turns to spread the ride on tarps under the sun. They rake it into patterns that remind me of Japanese gardens. Most of the rice being dried today is for eating but a slightly darker type is for making beer which Kabita hopes I'll try. On a hot sunny day, 20 minutes is enough drying time. Then they shovel it up. She gave me a chocolate and asked me for a CD of my photographs so I'll be back tomorrow to learn more of the process. I confess I was a bit surprised that she seemed so educated and conversational but so completely unpresumptuous - a lesson I shall try to remember.