Tuesday, October 4, 2005

Ramazan in Afghanistan


Elephant riding in Mai Sod Province, Thailand, March 2005


This picture was from a marvelous holiday I had in Thailand in March. (
See my pictures.) I seem to be falling into a pattern of going on great holidays between periods of employment (not to mention on the occasional mid-contract holiday). Thailand was unforgettable.


Today was the first day of Ramazan (Ramadan) - the most holy of Muslim months. Here's what I know and have observed about it:


The uncertainty about the beginning of Ramazan makes planning anything difficult. The first day of Ramazan is an important national holiday and so it's hard for my western mind to cope with the fact that although we know precisely when the moon will be new, we can't persuade various old Mullah's to commit to it until that day. There's a maximum length (30 days) for the previous month so if the Mullah's hadn't declared it today they'd have to tomorrow. In the case of our projects it influenced when an important peace building workshop could begin.


Next there are issues of fasting. Proper Muslims fast between sun up and sun down during Ramazan. Children, the sick, I think the elderly, the pregnant or nursing and travelers are excused. Work schedules are altered to allow some prayer time but generally a shorter working day because there's no lunch. At Oxfam we normally have lunches provided on weekdays but I've had my last of those because of Ramazan. There are various views on the proper behavior of non-Muslims who exist amongst Muslims. The most respectful behavior would be to fast too. The next level would be to eat and drink only behind closed doors. That could be for respect but it could also be so that food and drink aren't flaunted in front of the hungry. This is my second Ramazan in Afghanistan and I am planning a compromise position - discrete eating but no hesitation about drinking.


My first exposure to Ramazan was in Ottawa. I joined the Geographic Information Systems Division of Geomatics Canada - which had a Muslim director, Dr. Mossad Alam - during Ramazan. He was fasting and would hold long meetings right through 'lunch time'. He also invited me to his home for a magnificent evening (post sun-set) feast.


Last year I was working in the field (for the Landmine Impact Survey of Afghanistan) during Ramazan. I remember stopping for dinner in a Kebab restaurant near the Salang Pass. The Kebabs were all ready to go but everybody was waiting for the amplified voice of the local Mullah for the go-ahead.


Anyway, insh'allah I will only be here for a three more days. Thank goodness India is a Hindu state!

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