Arrival in Kathmandu

Flour mill, Sunauli, Nepal, October 23, 2005

As usual I seem to have fallen on my feet. I'm now settled in a luxurious hotel in Kathmandu (for a hardly atrocious US$12 per night). Today was marvelous - I had a leisurely morning and then flew on Cosmic Air to Kathmandu. (The other airlines at Bhairawa airport - Bhairawa is close to Sunauli and is also called Siddharthanagar - are the splendidly-named Yeti Airlines and Buddha Air.) I was met by a hotel representative who, while looking like Hitler, taught me a lot about Nepal in just the time it took my bags to be delivered and for us to ride to the Hotel Encounter. For instance, tourism has fallen upon hard times due to the Maoist uprisings although this is the best time of the year for the industry. I asked where most tourists currently come from - I think he said Japan first, then he named several of the wealthy western European countries. He said it's rare to find Americans here and, when prompted, he said the same about Canadians. I asked about Indians and he surprised me by saying that although they are fairly few, the five-star hotels here would close without them: they come to Nepal for the gambling or to visit Lumbini (close to Sunauli where I spent last night) which is merely the birthplace of Lord Buddha. I also asked about popular support for the Maoists, remembering learning in Cambodia that Pol Pot had never had popular support there. Perhaps it was a pretty naive question - he said about a third of the country support the Maoists. Another third support the monarchy and the last third support the democratic government. Right now the government is looking bad in the public eye for not recognizing the Maoist's three-month cease-fire. I also asked if the Maoists are propped up by China. He doesn't think so - he thinks there are no Maoists in power in China anymore - he says China has become a capitalist state.


Speaking of capitalism, this is extremely rare for me but I can honestly endorse Sight Nepal Travel & Tours (P.) Ltd. who have looked after me since I stepped off the train yesterday. They're enterprising to be sure but honest and they deliver good value. (Well - maybe the yesterday's bus wasn't quite as lovely as they lead me to expect... but the accommodations have been fine. Anyway, I%2