Update

New Year's fireworks behind the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

To plagiarize Ben-Bob, here is a "Quick update for anyone wondering what happened to me. (Something that I often wonder, myself.)"

I am back in Kabul after a dirvishly whirling train and bus tour of selected snippets of Turkey, Romania and Serbia (also passing through Bulgaria).

I intend to back-date posts on various parts of my holiday and to post photos to the souvenirs section of my website - but that might take some time. [Update: Here is the set from Istanbul.]

I have returned to find my backup of all my autumn photos and work may be lost because my lovely Seagate backup drive doesn't work. (It worked when I backed up my work computer in December before necessarily reinstalling Vista because of a virus attack sustained because my employer would not renew my virus protection. Actually I hope I can recover the files from my computer.) I have also found that what is to be my 'permanent' room in my compound is freezing cold despite the best efforts of my wood-burning stove. (Still, it is good to have my own room at last - I've been in temporary beds since August 20.) Also I have a pinched nerve in my shoulder that I can't massage out, the flu, and an ear infection.

Things can only get better.

Bucharest

(SPECIAL NOTE: I'm uploading these pictures directly from my memory card in a Belgrade Internet cafe and have no opportunity to crop or manipulate them. I hope to fix them up eventually)

Half my Bucharest adventure was getting there. I took the overnight train from Istanbul and had a couchette to myself once the other occupant complained that it was freezing. (I thought it was roasting.) It was pretty comfortable and the scenery traversing Bulgaria was pretty impressive.



En route through Bulgaria from Istanbul to Bucharest.



En route through Bulgaria from Istanbul to Bucharest.



En route through Bulgaria from Istanbul to Bucharest.


The border crossings (first from Turkey into Bulgaria, and then from Bulgaria into Romania) were a little bit oppressive. The first one was at about 3am and the most complicated part was getting the Turkish exit stamp. Everybody had to climb out of the train, shuffle through bitter wind to the passport control office (which was only slightly warmer than the platform) and then line up for the sole officer to stamp our passports. Having done this I shuffled back to my sauna-compartment, only to face neighbor's begging for help at the duty free. The things I'll do for a pretty woman! We shuffled back to the platform and I showed my passport at the duty free kiosk and she bought three cartons of Marlboros and then I went back to my warmth. About an hour later we were shunted across the border and the Romanian officials were searching her couchette and all I could imagine was the interior of the Romanian jail where I'd have plenty of time to contemplate aiding and abetting a smuggler. Luckily it didn't come to that...

In fact the Romanian authorities were quite welcoming. They did search my compartment about three times (looking for Gypsies?) but at least they did the formalities on the train and eventually we set off across Bulgaria. Once the sun rose I found it to be rather like Canada. The train kept getting later and later and we finally got to Bucharest about four hours late.


Bucharest.



Bucharest.



Bucharest.


I liked Bucharest but as I didn't really have a program there two days was enough. I bought some essential clothing and walked for miles and miles snapping whatever. A highlight was a couple of photo exhibitions at the National Theatre (and sneaking into the main concert hall during a setup) and general strolling around.


Bucharest National Theater.



Bucharest National Theater.



Bucharest.



Bucharest.



Bucharest.



Bucharest.


Following Bucharest - overnight to Belgrade.